Four Corners

South Florida to Maine.

The last fortune before I left on my 4 corners trip was “You are a traveler at heart. There will be many journeys.” So on July 15 after a brief delay due to a friends medical emergency I departed my home in south Florida headed for a brief visit with my older sister in Virginia. I knew when I left I would not return until late August.

This 1st leg was about family. After waiting out a thunderstorm on the side of the road in Georgia, I spent the 1st night by myself in Benson, North Carolina. As I comment often on surveys during my trip. It was a good night of sleep. When traveling that is a lot.

The next night I spent in Virginia. I was blessed to see my sister on a good day. She was alert and aware of the events of the time. That evening I had supper with my nephew. Habachi steak and vegetables which is a favorite of mine. I hope I reassured him that he is doing well by my sister. More than anything else that was the goal of this trip.

In the morning, I was off and headed to Philadelphia to drop off personal effects from my ex-wife’s mother. When I moved to Florida I had them in my possession with the intention of making digital copies. When I started the digitizing process it became clear I was not the one who should be performing that task.

Heavy traffic through New York city and rain on the Merritt Parkway may the trip stressful. The night ended in Sturbridge, MA and I arrived the next day at Porter Lake in Maine for the rest of the week.

The Lobster Feast.

This has become an yearly event and at this point with help it has become less stressful. Basically, we know what we are doing. Of course it was helpful that an extra gas burner was provided, since mine no longer operated properly. But the beast cooked the lobster to perfection.

The clams were even better and next year the recipe will call for more clams. Some of the corn will be cooked separately, if there is a volunteer to cook the corn.

Before cooking basket.

After cooking.

I believe everyone had a great time.

The Trip West…

The first leg of the trip was done. Now for the quick trip west. We spent the first night at a Days Inn in Brantford, Ontario. Our goal was to spend the next evening in Ludington, MI.

On the way to Ludington we stopped in Grand Rapids to have an early supper with a friend. We spent the night at the Viking Arms Inn in Ludington a short drive in the morning to the ferry terminal.

The Badger.

We decided to take the Badger across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc, Wisconsin. The trip takes 4 hours but there is a hour time difference. By taking the ferry we avoid the great nothing of the Ontario plains and the great congestion of Chicago. We also got 4 hours of riding and not driving.

The Badger is a coal fired steam ferry. We boarded for the 9 am trip.

Waiting to board.

Underway.

Arriving in Wisconsin

Wisconsin and Minnesota.

After a lunch of Pho in Manitowoc, we took back roads almost due west through Wisconsin. The one rest stop was at a gas station gun store, complete with a life size cutout of our least favorite President. While the people were welcoming, we didn’t feel like staying long.

We crossed into Minnesota crossing the Mississippi River right at Interstate 90 and continued our trip west. We did little in Minnesota, but we did stay at American Inn in Jackson.

Sight Seeing in the Upper Midwest.

The next day was hard driving and several stops. Our first stop was Wall Drugs. This watering hole was created by an enterprising man who made a name for providing travelers free water. It has grown into a block of tourist traps on both sides of the street. Wall Drug while there still may be a drug store consists of several restaurants and a whole lot of trinkets for sale.

We continue our trip with brief stops a Mount Rushmore.

and the Crazy Horse Monument. The life long work of a sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski with founds raised from visitors. On at least two occasions the federal government offer $10 million to support the work. On both occasions Korczak refused in order to maintain control over the project.

The work is being continued by the sculptor’s family. Currently, his grandson Caleb is in charge of the carving. This sculpture is impressive in its unfinished form. Compared to Mount Rushmore, it is enormous. The entire project is set up to increase knowledge of native American culture and heritage.

When finished it will immediately become a wonder of the world. I’m certain that completion will not be in my life time.

We spent the night at a Summit Suites in Gillete, Wyoming and made the decision to get across country quickly with only one addition tourist trip. We decided Yellowstone needed more than a drive through visit.

Custer’s Last Stand.

We learned that Custer was anything but a hero. He led his men into a battle, attempting to attach a large multi-tribe encampment on the other side of the Little Big Horn river. He was hoping to draw out his enemy while he slaughtered innocent women and children. Unfortunately for Custer and his men the native American braves were able to reach Custer before he enter the encampment.

The other problem for Custer he was in the open and greatly outnumbered. While he and his men fought bravely. The attach was foolish and his troops were defeated as they retreated to the sight of his last stand. This is shown by the trail of markers where his men fell leading up to the site of the final stand.

We spent our last night on the trip out west at the Stone Creek Lodge in Missoula, Montana.

Portland, Oregon

The next day we reached Portland, OR. This gave us a couple of days to rest before we both started work the following Monday.

After 9 days of ‘work’ I was joined by my sister from Maine to begin our trip home, but not before visiting the Rose Garden. While I know people who are allergic to roses, I know of no one who questions their beauty.

An example of the seemingly endless beds of roses is below.

Powell’s Bookstore

In my mind, no trip to Portland is complete without a visit to Powell’s Bookstore. While we did not have time to peruse the store. We both found books of interest. In today’s post Amazon world, it is a joy to know some brick and mortar bookstores have been able to survive and even thrive. Books on paper may be dying, but there is nothing like the feel of paper to make a story better.

The Trip South.

Crescent City

The drive to Crescent City was uneventful if you leave out the winding row, with Redwood trees right next to the road. No shoulder at 40+ mph speed limit.

We left Portland the next day headed for Crescent City, CA with the goal of driving the Avenue of the Giants the following day. Crescent City was a supposed to be a stopover. It turned out to be much more. We arrived mid-afternoon and drove to the Pacific Ocean to find a light house and a couple of young gentlemen. They suggested staying at the Anchor Beach Inn and I made a reservation.

The hotel was on the beach with a better view of the Lighthouse which proved to be inaccessible.

We also got to dip our toes in the Pacific Ocean.

But the best part of Crescent City was the restaurant that evening. Enoteca. As we were driving there we noticed that it didn’t seem crowded, which made us briefly consider going somewhere else. We parked and as we were walking in another couple entered.

There was a band playing, so live music was a plus. They also had a selection of micro brewerys. I ordered a flight and salad and my sister noticed it was Wing’s Wednesday. We ordered garlic Parmesan wings. The wings were wet with the parmesan melted not sprinkled. They were delicious, unlike any wings we had before.

We order a second helping this time teriyaki. Again wet and delicious. While this wasn’t the most expensive meal of our trip. It was surprising. It set the tone for the trip which followed.

The Avenue of the Giants.

We left Crescent City the next morning and had breakfast at the Green Lily in Eureka, CA. I told my sister that had I know the location of the Redwood Park, I would have stayed in Eureka. Breakfast was good, the restaurant had high painted metal ceilings. Both of us remarked how much fun it had been painting the metal ceilings down stairs at Mom and Dad’s house.

We entered the Avenue of the Giants at the visitor center. TIme for a new tee shirt (I decided my wardrobe need an upgrade in tee shirts on this trip.) I had started with tee shirts for the Badger, Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Now I was started, I was all in.

The redwoods are amazing. This was our first time and we drove through a tree. Unfortunately this trip also had a schedule. My sister’s flight home made it we were unable to linger. I had also schedule the trip so that Las Vegas (Hoover Dam) and the Grand Canyon were fixed into the schedule.

San Francisco.

In any event we needed to be in San Francisco awaited later in the day. Are stop in San Francisco was brief. We were hoping to have dinner with nieces in the LA are the next evening. We did have dinner on Fisherman’s wharf.

We spent the night at an Aloft in San Jose.

The Mission in San Luis Obispo.

This was an unplanned stop at the sight of an old spanish mission. While little of the original mission was in place, it served a respite for the drive south.

We spent the night at the Hilton Garden Inn in Valencia, CA. Dinner was fries and shakes at In and Out Burger.

Las Vegas and the Boulder Dam.

We spent the next two evenings at the Excelsior on the strip in Las Vegas. Our plans were to tour the Boulder Dam the next day. Upon arrival we determined there was a Carrie Underwood concert up the strip and with a little difficulty were able to get tickets. We had a good evening of music. I’m not certain Carrie would be my choice, but she did put on a good show.

The bus tour to the Boulder Dam was fun. It was a windy day which made holding on to hats a necessity. The tour included a visit to the power room. As most will know, there has been an extended drought in the western United States leading to decreased power production from the dam and a low water level in Lake Meade.

The diversion tunnels at the base of the dam which were used to divert the river during construction. These tunnels were large enough for trucks to drive in an out. As such during their construction workers where subjected to carbon monoxide. Would get sick, go home at night get sick and passaway. These deaths, since not a the dam sight were not recorded as official construction deaths.

And the power room.

The best part of the visit was the walk on the dam after the tour. Because of the high winds water poured over the dam often remains at the dam top until it disperses.

With the heat of the day. The best place to be was upwind.

Route 66 and A&W Root Beer.

At least part of the trip was nostalgic. In one of my past lifetimes I seem to remember A&W Root Beer stands as being drive-in restaurants with the wait staff serving cars on roller skates. (The roller skates may be my imagination playing tricks.) In the east at least A&W no longer has much of a foot print.

On our travels I noticed A&W Restuarants as an option for fast food. I knew at some point we had to stop. Between Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon we found one on of all places Route 66 (the highway which had it’s own TV show.) It was just meant to be. Root Beer floats in an old fashion glass mug, on Route 66.

The Grand Canyon.

If Crazy Horse Monument is a future man-made wonder of the world, the Grand Canyon is certainly a US entry for natural wonder of the world. This was my third trip to the Canyon, but for my sister it was her first. As with my last trip to the canyon, I choose to ride the Grand Canyon Railway. It worked well the last time and this time was great as well.

Before arriving at the rail station, we stopped in Williams, AZ for some laundry. While waiting for our clothes to be done, we met a vagabond of sorts. He had a van fashioned with solar panels which he used injunction with a battery to keep his refrigerator running. He worked odd jobs and was friendly. There are more ways to serve society then traditional life styles.

After laundry we went to the Grand Canyon Railway Depot and Hotel to check in. I quickly settled on a parking spot near the restaurant figuring I’d move the car as needed for where our room ended up. The car didn’t move until we left four days later.

Getting situated.

Our first stop was the voucher both. We received train tickets, dinner and breakfast vouchers for our overnights in Williams at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel, vouchers for the sunset tour and the associated lunch voucher for when we arrived at the canyon. Basically, the rest of the trip was setup for a good time.

And we checked into our room. It ended up being on the first floor, with an entry near where our car was parked. and got settled in for a leisurely supper. Again there was a singer playing the guitar. While not great it was enjoyable. The diner was buffet style with a pasta bar and roast beef station. Salad to our own choosing. Basically good comfort food.

The Trip to the Rim.

Breakfast in the morning was also buffet style, complete with an omelet/eggs to order station. Again good comfort food. Followed by a wild west show complete with a sheriff who admittedly isn’t very good at his job. Though he did get his men.

Our chosen selection for the trip was the Luxury Parlor Car. Seating is couches with a light buffet. As the last car in the string it also has an outdoor observation deck. We conversed with our fellow passenger’s and enjoyed the almost 2 hour ride to the rim.

Once we arrived, we walked to the rim for our lunch. The first sighting of the canyon always is awesome. For lunch I had a nicely cooked rib eye steak.

One option is whether to spend the night in the park or return the same day to Williams. We spent the night and took the sunset tour, which included a stop where the Colorado River is visible.

Just prior to sunset we got to Hermit’s Point. I started with a picture of the canyon showing the shadows growing.

I had difficulty breathing at 7000 feet so I found a spot, set and took a series of pictures of the sunset. It seemed like each was beautiful in their own right.

By the time we got back to our hotel, it was dark and difficult to find our room. With a little help a good night sleep was had.

The Deluge Begins.

The next day we used the free bus system to explore the eastern side of the park.

With more great vista’s. But as noon approached it became clear that the whether was growing more gloomy. As we got ready to take the bus back to the main village and railway station we started hearing thunder. The bus driver stated that the rim was closed and the eastern and western buses were no longer dropping off, but were serving as a shuttle service to get people away from the rim.

Our bus took us to the railway station where we found cover. We waited the next several hours under cover as the thunderstorms continued through the area. Later we were to learn that flash flooding occurred at the floor of the canyon. For us we took the train back to Williams, a buffet dinner and buffet breakfast the next day.

The lesson learned is that if we had taken the train one day later our trip the the canyon would not have been as enjoyable. As it was I would do it again.

The Desert Near Scottsdale, AZ

The United States includes many varied eco systems. For those from the Northeast, non is as foreign or as exotic as the desert in the South West. This trip was unique. As I’ve posted in the past, I enjoy monthly pedicures and by the time we got to Scottsdale it was passed do.. While still in Williams I called ahead and got appointments.

The salon at Talking Stick is on the 14th floor with a outstanding view of the desert panorama toward Tuscon. After I finished up a huge cloud formed near Tuscon. Turns out a dust storm was headed our way. I watched as security cleared out the pool area. The golfers just kept playing.

A thunder shower followed the dust storm causing minor flooding as we went out to dinner. We met up with a bridge partner who treated us to a steak at Ruth Chris. This was my first chance to meet the bridge partner so it was an enjoyable evening.

Boyce Thompson Arboretum.

We got a chance to walk slowly through the botanical garden. Many native but also non-native plants. The trail has multiple signs warning of rattlesnakes. We avoided the snakes and enjoyed the varieties of arid plants.

The arboretum closed at noon, to avoid the worst of the heat.

After the Boyce Thompson it was time to head east. We needed to be in Palm Beach County within the week and there were a lot of miles between Arizona and South Florida. While there are points of interest, there is also a lot of nothiing..

The lands are mostly dry scrub brush. The altitude anywhere between 2000 and 5000 feet. For me it was time to get down to where I could breath.

San Antonio, TX

Our next stop was San Antonio, TX, with the desire to visit the River walk and the Alamo. The first night we were able to walk to Mamacitias which provided nice Mexican cuisine. We spent our first morning dealing with an excess of laundry to prepare for the rest of our journey.

Turns out the Alamo is of interest to anyone who wants a history lesson. The Alamo was not about the United States and Mexico. It was a Mexican civil war with an attempt to get a despot to restore a constitution providing individual rights.

Brothers fought for both sides. The mission, the building we now represent the battle was within a large walled enclosure. The reason it was mostly left undamaged was that by the time the battle go to the mission building the battle was mostly over.

After the Alamo we were able to cruise the river and ended our San Antonio experience by dining on the Riverwalk.

One thing San Antonio had in common with all our stops was the heat. Temperatures were at or over 100 degrees throughout our trip. Staying hydrated was a must.

Continuing East.

We drove through Houston encountering a thundershower just as we got to a bridge. Unable to see much we crossed the bridge and then found a spot just past a stopped trailer truck to wait out the storm. We continued our journey to New Orleans.

New Orleans

We stayed in the French Quarter at the Hotel de la Monnale. This is on the Far East corner of the Quarter just east of the French Market. We walked to supper on Esplanade Ave. During our tour the next day we learned that Esplanade was were the locals went to explore music and dine.

Our restaurant had Po’ Boys and music; a quartet with drums, saxophone, guitar, and stand up bass. The food was good and the entertainment enjoyable. By now I was tired from a hard days drive from San Antonio. The rest needed to wait for the next day.

The Grave Yard Tour.

There are at least two major types of tours in New Orleans. Graveyard or swamp. We selected the Grave Yard Tour. Turns out New Orleans from the beginning had a problem disposing of the dead. Standard coffins didn’t due the trick because the high water table would push the coffins back to the surface. Not a good solution.

The New Orleans solution is ingenious. Instead of burying their dead in the ground they bury the dead above ground shortly after death without embalming. They are closed in family tomb where the temperatures rise to a point to naturally cremate the remains.

A tomb may only be opened once every year and a day. Provisions are made for temporary burial if more than one family member dies in a year. Communal tombs are avail for those less fortunate.

The Drive to South Florida

Following our tour we were off. At this point it was time to return to south Florida. After stopping for a thundershower after leaving New Orleans we stopped just west of Tallahassee. The next day we were able to avoid the worst of the storms and arrived at my home without further incident or excitement.

Conclusion.

There is a lot to our country. Most of it has a beauty unique to a region. I still have parts of the country I wish to see.